Tuesday, 18 August 2015

Kosi Bay - The Key to Successful Eco-Tourism?

Kosi Bay is a wilderness preservation area nestled up against the border of South Africa and Mozambique. Instead of disinheriting the local Enkovukeni community of their homelands they have been incorporated into the Reserve.

Following on the heels of programmes like Chitwan National Park in Nepal that has made an effort to promote local citizens and employees and to allow them to continue traditional practices, Kosi Bay has come a long way towards a peaceful co-existance between park employees and tribal peoples.

Tourists
This appears to be a good response to concerned tourists who feel uncomfortable visiting game parks whose creation has produced internally displaced refugees. 

Ilsa, a Swedish tourist, has visited the Kosi Reserve bi-annually since its inception in the 1980s.
"Talking to people in this area is very different from other places I have visited in East Africa. Here, there appears to be little resentment towards the conservation authorities. When I visit Kosi Bay I feel good that my holiday is contributing to the development of the local community."

The Kosi Bay system is a huge area comprised of six large lakes, two smaller lakes and an estuary that lies alongside the Indian Ocean. During the early years of African conquest. the threat of malaria and fly-born stock diseases dissuaded early British and Dutch settlers from developing the area. Consequently, the local inhabitants lived relatively undisturbed for a hundred years or more. When the area was initially made into a reserve there was a lot of conflict between conservation officials and local inhabitants.

In 1982, driven partially by a mutual concern over the declining numbers of mussels along the reserves coast, conservation officials and park inhabitants began to seek a common ground and found it in this: the park inhabitants agreed to follow conservation guidelines for fishing and shellfish collection; in return, 25% of the parks gross revenue would go to the local Tribal Authority. This agreement, plus a 1998 legislation that allows subsistence fishing. has eased tensions greatly.

Today the activities of the locals setting their fish traps has become as much a tourist attraction as snorkling over the reefs, bird watching and the interactive activities at the Turtle Research Station across the dunes at Banganek.

Miriam
Miriam helps to ferry the harvest of fish through waist deep water and greets a group of interested visitors. "It is nice to see different people interested in us", she says shyly. "It is good for my family to have the tourists in the area. Once my sons would have been just fishermen like me, but now they are both employed. One is a waiter at a lodge and the other drives a boat for the Parks deparment."

Miriam's husband Enoch agrees and claims that the introduction of income from the park has changed their perspective. "Over there," he says, gesturing towards the Mozambique border with a bloody fish gutting knife, "are people who come here to fish the reefs and cut down out forest trees. Once, we would not have worried about it, but these days we want to protect what is ours. Who is going to come here if our resources are all stolen?"

Co-operation
Constant dialogue must be maintained between the tribe, conservation officials and developers. Until recently Kosi Bay has been a relatively unknown park, but the 1999 incorporation of the park into the new Greater St.Lucia Wetland World Heritage Site has resulted in the construction of additional roads, an airstrip and a large resort which will probably change that.

Growth and development in the area is part of the conservation authorities' policy. The KZN Wildlife Department has stated that it "recognises that Nature Conservation can play an important role in the development of sustainable livlihoods."

Indeed, the Conservation Board, non-governmental departments, local communities and other interested parties have input regarding the future. As Jeff Gaisford, at that time of the KwaZulu Conservation Media Division pointed out, "Part of the new KZN conservation act involves the creation of local conservation boards designd to give local interest a greater say in the management of our protected areas. We have a few up and running already, but they now include representatives from local rural communities and local businesses, as well as affected NGOs - so these are not purely community run. Our aim is to have all our parks with a local board and where it is not possible to have one board per park, we aim at board managing a group of smaller parks. This is in addition to the KNZ Nature Conservation Board that is the governing board of the entire organisation and is the "Big Brother" so to speak."

Park development has already changed the local landscape. Many locals who would normally have moved away from the area now opt to stay. Already, there is evidence along the roadside of enterprising locals catering to the tourist trade. Utilising local resources on a controlled and sustainable basis, craft shops have been set up.

However, cracks in the system of actually policing the private developers are becoming evident. Stalls selling firewood, cut from the fragile sand forest in the area, line the road for miles.

In a December 2002 press release, the KZN wildlife staff in the Kosi Bay area reported "a significant increase in the number of young animals and birds being offered for sale on roadsides." This could be an indicator that locals are turning away from subsistence fishing and are becoming absorbed into a consumer society.
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Placing a value of wildlife conservation is vital to the survival of conservation in Africa. Educating tribal landowners has helped to limit land degradation and even financially benefitted displaced tribes. In a landmark court decision handed out in July 2002, a portion of the nearby Ndumo Game Reserve was handed back to the descendants of the original tribal people. They opted to allow the KNZ Wildlife Department to continue to manage the land.

Nontheless, this beggars the question: If the conservation of biodiversity is to become commercial in order to pay out all interested parties, will the focus move away from conservation and lean towards the "Pack the Tourists In" syndrome?

In the summer edition of the KZN Wildlife Magazine, editor David Muirhead indiated the trend may already be happening. He pointed out that conservation must be "made to pay for its keep" and the only way to do this is to "maximise" income from tourists. Over a ten year period accommodation within the Kosi Reserve grew from ten simple campsites to include luxury lodges which now sleep in excess of 180 people per night.

With the additional tourists, an increase in population on reserve fringes and pressure from developers, it may be more difficult for the hard-won co-operation to continue. Until then Kosi Bay seems to be an unusual example of sustainable tourim that works.

Zambia's Siavonga Music Festival

Three year old music festival gaining popularity. (by Jane Flowers)
Easter 2013 was the first Siavonga Music Festival in Zambia. Siavonga is a tiny settlement on the banks of Lake Kariba in Zambia and the bed nights were booked to the last bed and campsite.
The event took place at the beautiful, idylic Eagles Rest Resort which boats a perfect venue - White beaches, palm trees and a beach bar. Manager and director Karen Fagyas reports that it was exhausting, exhiliarating and a wonderful way to put Siavonga on the music map.


The Bongwe Barn and Rest House in Lusaka was also very involved in organising this innovative music fest and reported that Zambia's first world-class music festival featuring 15 of Zambia's top artists was attended by 1500 people and "the 1500 who made the effort to drive all the way to the Siavonga, who ate, who danced, who DRANK, who performed, who laughed, who fell over, who didn't sleep, who worked, who brought friends...YOU have all contributed in helping Bongwe Safaris, Eagles and Inzy create the very first Zambian festival! We made HISTORY! What a weekend!"+
The 2014 event was hosted by Bongwes Big Bush in Lusaka and drew crowds desite the weather which was rainy and damp, Some of the popular bands that played included Gangsofballet, Shadowclub and Cactus Agony.

Siavonga Music Festival 2015 produced three nights of throbbing live music with hardcore DJs taking the crowd through until the early morning. Windhoek Draught sponsored the event that saw a rocking times from new international artists and a return visit from Evicted. An epic event indeed!
Zambia is a friendly country and has a very different vibe to Zimbabwe or South Africa. If you love your music and are looking out for a different destination next Easter then keep an eye out for the 2016 Festival on Social media.

Umfurudzi Safari Area: Hippo Pools (Zimbabwe) A community Conservation Project

By J Flowers

In the evenings the bull hippo grunts out a feeble challenge as if he knows that there will be no challenger to his territory. The females in his pod number just two females, a mother and daughter. The daughter is pregnant. Soon there will be a fourth hippo in Hippo Pools Wilderness, Zimbabwe.

HIPPO POOLS WILDERNESS CAMP
Overlooking the pool where the last remaining hippos live is the Hippo Pools Wilderness Camp. Iain Jarvis runs the camp. Sitting around the evening fire, he is keen to talk about the project.

           “This rustic camp plays an important role in eco-tourism for the area and in the awareness of the Umfurudzi Safari Area. Hippo Pools is one of the projects of the Wilderness Africa Trust”

Iain is the founder member of the Wilderness Africa Trust and the Executive Director. He is one of the men who has spent a lifetime dedicated to conservation and anti poaching. Prior to the Hippo Pools project he was recognized for his efforts that led to the establishment of the Cecil Kop Nature Reserve near Mutare
Iain says that the Hippo Pools Wilderness camp was started in 1982. The project was a community effort.

“Our investment here with the Garura Community project has contributed very significantly to the area with vehicle track development and weir construction. We have a hiking trail network and our anti-poaching patrols have saved the lives of thousands of animals.”

Wilderness Africa Trust
The immediate aim of the Wilderness Africa Trust includes fostering a close working relationship with the adjacent communities. It is hoped that sustainable projects can be of benefit to the local communities who will then not only understand the importance of preserving the Umfurudzi Safari Area and the Mazowe River, but will directly benefit from it.

“We train the people in conservation and eco-tourism and hope to use camps like Hippo Pools, to bring in visitors. The visitors will provide an income for these keen young people”, Iain explains, gesturing towards the pleasant young lad who earlier offered us a guided bird walk.
         
         “Education for the local people is our starting platform” says Iain, “but long term we would like to get educational school trips to the camp. We need to encourage conservation awareness amongst the young generation in Zimbabwe.”

Long term objectives will be harder to achieve and these include the provision of funds to build a perimeter fence. Restocking the Safari area with wildlife species that once abounded is another objective. Maintenance and re-building of the existing infrastructure is in desperate need of financing.

The Umfurudzi Safari Area
The Umfurudzi Safari Area was declared in 1974. The 75 000 hectares of wilderness are 160km northeast of Harare. Once, elephant and lion roamed here in great numbers, as did other important species such as black rhinoceros and roan antelope. The area is ideal habitat for sable, leopard, bushbuck and klipspringer.
Over the last thirty years, the animals have been disappearing. In some places, standing amongst the vast miombo forests where they merge with Mopane woodland, there is a feeling of desolation. Like the Empty Forest Syndrome of West Africa, no game tracks criss-cross the veld. It is desolate and silent. The only sound is the wind sighing in the trees. An old baobab bears the rubbing marks of the elephant that once rested there in the midday heat, but the elephant have long since gone, along with five other species. The black rhino, waterbuck, roan, lion and eland have vanished.

Near the Umfurudzi River and along the base of the magnificent mountain ranges where natural bamboo guards the strings of pools, there are signs of animals. Baboons and monkeys frequent the watercourses. Tracks in the sand tell of sable, impala and kudu. During the day these animals are seldom seen. Only the pre-dawn riser will have much chance of glimpsing them and then they are off, galloping in panic away from the intruder.

Threats to the Wilderness
Mining and quarrying pose the greatest threat to the Umfurudzi. The Natural Stone Export Company poses a threat as it quarries large quantities of black granite in the area. East of the Mazowe river damage to the environment by N.S.E.C is extensive.

The minerals rights to the area have been assigned to various small enterprises. Exploration work is done without any obvious attempt at environmental rehabilitation. Roads and trenching disfigure the area. To the South of the Umfurudzi River, the small mining activities are greater than the more northern areas.
The swath of trees cut down by the Zimbabwe Electrical Supply Authority to run power to the N.S.E.C has already destroyed over a million trees. Trees of great size, rarity and beauty, were chopped away and the power line will run through the Hippo Pools Wilderness area. The flora in the area is unique. This area is where the Miombo woodland of the highlands meets the vegetation of the Zambezi valley. The miombo stands amongst the magnificent granite and dolerite features, whilst the Zambezi vegetation provides diversity along the rivers and alluvial areas.

Game Hunting Concessions are being talked about. Whether this will be a threat to the Hippo Pools project with its trails facilities is not known at this time. It is hoped that there will be some consulting with stakeholders like the Wilderness Africa Trust. Restocking and hunting activities will have spin-off benefits, but it is hoped that the activities for guests to the Hippo Pools will be allowed to continue.

Accommodation & Visitor Activities.
Generating money through visitors to the Hippo Pools wilderness camp is vital to the whole community project. The camp is a sad relic of what once must have been. An obvious lack of visitors and income has left the place a bit run down. The restaurant, sun deck and camp site are in disrepair.
The cottages have gas fridges and stoves and are very basic and rustic. Basic and rustic is wonderful, but run-down and unkempt is not a big draw-card.

The place has an air of neglect that seems to be crying out for a loving care-taker. Iain and his staff try as best as they can to make the visitor welcome. The cleaners clean, but what it really needs is a facelift, for no amount of scrubbing can renovate the rusted toilet bowl and the missing door latches.
At US$20 per person per night, the price is about right for what the self catering visitor gets in return. It is the potential that is just waiting for funds that leaves the visitor in wistful mindset, of what might have been, and what still could be.

The purist would be offended by the cows that graze the buffalo lawns, but there are few bulk grazers left. This is the nature of community involvement. Equally incongruous is the small eland herd that walks placidly past the locals fishing for their supper. It is a sign of success that the locals are fishing for their supper instead of poaching the eland that gaze at them with innocent curiosity.
The fishing is excellent. The cabins are right on the waters edge and the fisherman can see the tiger jumping from the shade of the trees that cool down the camp.

The sport fish include vundu and chessa as well as good sized tiger fish. Bream fishing for the pot is very good
For those who don’t fish, there are over 200 km of mapped paths and hiking trails within the camp's operational area. These are designed to suit all levels of fitness.

There are marked trails along the river and alluvial plains. More challenging trails lead into the rugged granite kopjes.With trees of interest clearly marked, and an abundance of good birding, the trails and walks are guaranteed to interest anyone with a love of nature.

Visitors can go on guided canoe trips, or can choose to hire the canoe and make their own way. Game drives are available or the visitor can self drive but remember to leave very early in the morning of you want to see much. The roads are well maintained but a pick-up or a 4x4 are preferable, especially in the rainy season.
The Hippo Pools Wilderness Camp is not a Mana Pools or a big five reserve, but it has the peace and quiet and charm of rural Africa. It is still a place where the night apes bounce on the roof and rattle around the kitchen at night.

Getting There
From Harare, the camp is about a three hour drive. The best route is via Shamva, off the Enterprise road. Beyond Shamva, after 25kms the tar ends about two kilometers from the abandoned Madziwa Mine. Turn right into the Madziwa Mine village. There are signs, but it is easy to get lost in the old mine compounds, so asking for the right track is a good idea. The old mine workers who live in the mine village are friendly and will direct you. The road goes past the bottom end of the old mine. It is tarred but very pot-holed.
After a journey of 18kms, the entrance gate to the Umfurudzi Safari area is reached. There will be a charge of US$5 to pay at the entrance gate. From there, bear left at a junction where the cement direction signs have fallen over. A drive of a further 15kms will bring you to Hippo Pools. If you arrive at the Wardens office, you have missed the left hand fork and will need to back-track.

Accommodation Enquiries
Enquiries & information - wildernessafrica@zol.co.zw
Executive Director, Iain Jarvis - wildernessafrica@zol.co.zw
20 Le Roux Drive,
Hillside,
Box HG 261,
Highlands
Harare
Zimbabwe
Telephone: +263-4 747929
Cellphone: +263-11 888 942
Fax: +263-4 747929

GoPro Wearable Cameras Suit Any Activity

By J Flowers

Go Pro takes photography to a new level. By Jane Flowers

Bikers, snow boarders, surfers or mountaineers hardly ever had the time to stop and take a happy snap before the advent of GoPro. GoPro has changed that in a big way and consumers are flocking to get their camera to record those special holiday moments.

The GoPro takes us right into our own adventure. Like to drive off-road? The GoPro cams and accessories can be mounted right there on your 4x4 with roll mounts or suction cup mounts. This time around you really can share the snow driven hell of Sani Pass in winter with your family and friends.

Serious about your sport? A GoPro can be worn on your body or on your hockey stick and is a wonderful tool for coaches players and umpires.

What is a Gopro and how does it differ from other cameras? The answer is that they are the best modern day action cameras available and for those addicted to selfies, can be aimed to include the most extreme adventures out there.

Kang Ultra-stop Accommodation: Trans Kalahari Highway

Kang Ultra-stop Accommodation: Trans Kalahari Highway (Botswana). By J Flowers

Vultures patrol the Trans Kalahari Highway. Road kill litters the verge. These are not small road kill like mice and birds. I am talking about horses, cows, donkeys, ostriches, dogs and goats.

The Trans Kalahari links Johannesburg in South Africa with Windhoek in Namibia. It cuts straight through the lower Kalahari Desert depression in Botswana. On your journey of one thousand three hundred and sixty kilometers from Johannesburg to Windhoek, there will be opportunity to see the vultures. There will also be a lot of time to think about why the people of Botswana do not safeguard their livestock.


Your journey from South Africa to Namibia cannot be done in a single day. Night driving would be suicidal. Apart from the animals there are endless cargo trucks plying their way between the three countries.


This is a dangerous road to drive. It is long, straight and hot, with few places to stop and rest or refresh. Stunted scrubby trees stretch into the horizon. Shimmering heat paints mirages of water on the road. Livestock fling themselves recklessly in front of vehicles, determined to test the green grass theory on the other side of the road.

Location
Eight hours into the drive, just at the moment when you feel enough driving is enough, a small and non-descript looking settlement appears next to the road. The most obvious sign of civilization is the fuel station, a fast food and a small shop. There is little else to see. You have arrived at Kang.

An Oasis
The Kang Ultra Stop is situated in Botswana, 760 kilometers from Johannesburg and half way to Windhoek. Talk about location, location, location! The overnight stop accommodation at Kang is a very welcome sight to the eyes of the tired traveler.

Accommodation
There are very neat and tidy chalets set in irrigated gardens. Each chalet is air-conditioned, spotlessly clean and has hot and cold water for the bath. In an oasis of palm trees, there is an aquamarine swimming pool in a natural setting. Just across the yard is the bar and restaurant.



There are few things in life better than a cool swim, clean clothes, cold beer, thick grilled steak and salad and clean crispy sheets to slide between at the end of a long drive. Heaven! This is not your average African Truck Stop.


The price is right. On average you would expect to pay about R250.00 for the night. They are known to accept both South African Rand, Namibia Dollars and Euro which is useful. Botswana Pula is the local currency and is slightly stronger than the South African Rand. They also accept credit card payment.

Booking accommodation:
Bookings can be made by email at:
· Botswana@madbookings.com or
· ultrastopkang@yahoo.com
Telephone bookings :
· +267 651 7294
· +267 651 7292